Merrick's Art | DIY Ruffle Hem Sewing Tutorial

I made this dress a few weeks ago to wear for our pregnancy announcement. I had initially planned to make a lace bodycon dress from a thick crocheted cream colored lace I bought in the LA fabric district a few years ago, but decided against it because my baby bump isn’t quite big enough to be wearing bodycon dresses without making me look chubby.

So instead I opted for a looser fitting drop waisted dress that allowed me to show the bump only when I wanted to, and it worked much better for my body type. This is a perfect dress for anybody, pregnant or not, and you probably all need one. If you do want to make one for a bigger bump than mine, just use a stretch knit and it will accommodate any size of bump!

I’ve already made a second one in a gorgeous burgundy (I’m wearing it this weekend, so watch for it on my instagram, @merricksart), and think I’ll make at least one more during this pregnancy — they’re just so easy and so flattering!

Click READ MORE below to find the full sewing tutorial!

Materials needed:

– 2 yards fabric

(I used a soft cotton blend for this, but used 100% rayon for my burgundy one

and the drape is much better. If you want it to be maternity, use a knit fabric with some stretch)

– matching thread

– iron

– scissors

– pattern paper (I buy mine in the interfacing (on the bolt) section of the fabric store)

First, cut your pieces. Use an existing shift dress as a pattern and cut out pattern pieces for your DRESS FRONT AND BACK piece, NECKLINE LINING, and SLEEVE. Then lay those pattern pieces flat on your folded over fabric and cut a DRESS FRONT AND BACK (you can lower the neckline on the front if you’d like once they’re cut), 2 SLEEVES (cut on the fold), NECKLINE LINING, and then cut the DRESS HEM piece. Just continue along the angle of the dress and cut the strip about 3″ long. And finally, cut two RUFFLE HEM pieces, one for the front and one for the back. They should be 6-8″ in length, and 1 1/2 to 2 times the width (not circumference) of the bottom of the dress.

Step 1. Sew your FRONT and BACK DRESS pieces together at the shoulder seams with right sides together.

Step 2. Open the dress and lay it flat on the floor, facing up. With right sides together, pin the top of the SLEEVE and the top of the shoulder together, as shown. Continue down the rest of the arm hole, pinning the sleeve in place.

Step 3. Sew the sleeve to the arm hole with a 1/2″ seam allowance and a straight stitch.. Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the other sleeve.

Step 4. Once both of your sleeves are in, pin the dress pieces together from the end of the sleeve to the end of the dress. Sew in place with a straight stitch.

Step 5. Now take your two DRESS HEM pieces and sew them together on the short sides with right sides together.

Step 6. With right sides together, pin the DRESS HEM to the bottom of the dress and sew around the entire circumference with a straight stitch.

Step 7. Sew the two NECKLINE LINING pieces together, with right sides together, to make a circle.

Step 8. Then, with right sides together, pin the NECKLINE LINING to the neckline of the BODICE. Stretch as you go so it fits evenly around the neckline. Sew around the neckline with a straight stitch, stretching as you sew so you don’t get any tucks. Flip the NECKLINE LINING inside and press your seams flat, then sew around the entire neckline again with a wide straight stitch to secure the NECKLINE LINING in place.

Step 9. Take your two RUFFLE HEM pieces and sew up the short sides with a straight stitch and right sides together.

Step 10. Do a basting stitch around the top edge, leaving the threads long. Then pull the threads to create gathers until the circumference of the RUFFLE HEM is the same as the dress (if you don’t know how to do gathers, we have an entire video on gathering in The Modern Girl’s Guide to Sewing).

Step 11. With right sides together, sew the gathered RUFFLE HEM to the bottom of the dress with a straight stitch.

Step 12. Hem your sleeves and your dress to your desired length, press all your seams, and you’re done!

September 25, 2015

DIY FRIDAY: RUFFLE HEM SHIFT DRESS (MATERNITY or NON MATERNITY)