Throw Pillow with Piping (Tutorial)

I had a decent amount of the Michael Miller bike fabric leftover from the baby bumpers, so the other day I pulled it back out and made a little throw pillow for Peanut’s bed. Having the fabric in two places helps tie the room together; plus, with the piping, the pillow looks so professional and, in my opinion, adorable.

  • pillow form (mine was 11″x16″)
  • 1 yard of fabric (roughly, depending on the size of your pillow)
  • piping (enough to go around the outside of your pillow, plus a few inches — I used Leanne’s tutorial here, and had it ready to go before I started my pillow)
  • matching thread
Step 1. Cut out three rectangles, one for the FRONT of the pillow and two for the BACK. The FRONT piece should be as big as your pillow form (with 1/2″ added on each side for the seam allowance), and the two BACK pieces should be as long as your pillow form, but slightly shorter on the sides since they’ll be overlapping (and again a 1/2″ added on each side for s.a.). 

Step 2. For the two BACK pieces, fold twice over one of the long sides and sew along it, as seen below, to make a nice crisp edge. Do this for both BACK pieces. Press.

Step 3. This part takes a while, but be patient and go slowly. With your ready-made piping, start at the bottom middle and pin all the way around the FRONT piece of your pillow (on the right side of the fabric).

When you get to the corners, make them as square as possible by snipping into the raw edge toward the piping (as seen below).

When you get all the way around and reach the beginning of your piping, do as follows (with corresponding images below):

  1. Starting with the beginning of your piping (the part you pinned first), trim back the piping about an inch from the edge of your piping fabric, and seal end of piping by burning with a lighter for a few seconds. With the extra inch of fabric, fold it over toward the piping, as seen below. 
  2. Take the opposite end of your piping (the very last part to be pinned), and measure with your finger where you want to trim it so the two ends of piping match up perfectly and don’t overlap (or gap).
  3. Trim the piping and piping fabric at your mark (seal the piping again with the lighter). 
  4. Fold over the beginning piping. When this is sewn into place, this seam will be hardly noticeable. 

Now all your piping should be pinned into place on the right side of your FRONT piece, as seen below.

Step 4. Take the two BACK pieces and pin them face down on the FRONT piece, taking out the pins and re-pinning them through all three layers (FRONT, piping & BACK), as seen below. Sew a straight seam around the entire perimeter (on the outside edge of the piping), using a zipper foot so you can get as close to the piping as possible.

Step 5. After your perimeter seam is finished, trim and serge or zigzag the raw edge. Turn inside out and press the entire pillow case.

This is what the piping connection at the bottom should look like (see? hardly noticeable):

Step 6. Stuff your pillow form inside your pillow case, making sure the corners of the form are all the way in the corners of the case. 
And you’re done! 
optional: Add a button or velcro to the backside of the pillow to connect the two back sections. I planned to do a button, but when it turned out so flat and nice, I felt no need. 
As always, comment or email me with any questions. Happy Sewing!
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